Airplane Storage Rack - 1 1/2" PVC Pipe

Hello again out there.

This is the article I mentioned in my last article, "Four Sheet No Waste 80" Flying Wing" showing how to make a rack from 1 1/2" PVC pipe that will store a large number of airplanes, large and small in a fairly small space.

I had an unused window alcove that measures 3'6 X 6'6 and a whole bunch of airplanes lying around in every available corner and on all of the furniture in my shop / family room.  I decided that I needed to find a way to store them in as small   space as possible.  This is what I came up with:

Here are a couple of photos of my rack almost fully loaded:

Here is a short video with an over view:

The construction is pretty straight forward;

First you have to determine the location you have available or want to dedicate to the rack. The ideal location would be a little used nook or corner with at least six feet of room in one direction and preferably in both.  I used a nook that is 6'6 X 3'6 but my wings come out 6' in the other direction.  The space you plan to use will determine the fittings and pipe lengths needed to make the base and top brace. The ceiling height will determine how long the 4 vertical sections are.

Top and Bottom Frame Assemblies:

If you are using a corner and can go 6' wide both ways the top and bottom assemblies would consist of the following:

90 Degree elbow (turned up), 32" pipe, 45 degree elbow (turned to side), 1 1/2" pipe, tee (turned up with sweep toward 45 elbow),34" pipe, tee ( up with sweep opposite direction), 1 1/2" pipe, 45 degree elbow (turned to side), 32" pipe, 90 degree elbow  (turned up).

CORRECTION: The 34" length above was originally listed as 43" which was incorrect.

The distances from tee to tee are all about 36" center to center.   

It should look like this (except):

Note: This is the top frame from my unit that fits the window alcove.  It has 60 degree elbows next to the tees so the legs are not parallel to the walls as they should be.  One made for this location would have 45 degree elbows and the two legs would be against the walls.

You have to make two like this, one for the bottom and one for the top.

The easiest way to get the tees and elbows all lined up is to assemble them upside down with the open ends of the elbows and tees pushed tight to the floor.  First glue a tee onto the middle section.  Then as you glue the second tee hold both open fittings down to the floor while the glue sets.  Then glue the elbows onto the remaining two pieces.  Then glue the two 1 1/2" pieces into the tees.  As you glue the first 45 degree elbow in hold both the tees and the 90 degree elbow down to the floor.  Attach the second 45 degree arm the same way.  When you get done all of the open fittings where the verticals will go will be flat on the floor.  Just turn it over and you have the bottom frame complete with all of the sockets pointing straight up.  Repeat for the top frame.

Vertical Assemblies:

Next you have to make the verticals.  They are simply a stack of short vertical pipe sections and tees to make up the height you have available.  I made mine with all 6" pipe sections.  The top pipe section does not have to be as long since it just attaches the top frame.  I used 9 sections 6" each and a 3" piece to fit under my ceiling.  My total height is 7'3.  If you have 8' ceilings this is probably a good height for you as well. If you are using this arrangement you will need 36 tees, 36 sections of pipe cut to 6" and 4 pieces 3" long.

Assembly of the verticals is similar to making the top and bottom frames.  Start with one tee and glue two 6" pipe sections into it.  Then use the floor to align the two openings when you glue the second tee.  Do the same with each tee you add holding the whole assembly down to the floor and rotating each new tee till its open fitting is flat on the floor.  You should also lay the assembly flat on its side every two or three fittings so be sure it is straight the other way.  When you are done you should have a stiff assembly with 9 tees all facing the same way.  It should have all 6" pipes between the tees and one on the bottom as well.  It should have a 3" pipe on the top.  Make 4 like this.

This picture shows the bottom half of one vertical inserted into the elbow at the lower left and the bottom of a second one below the green FT3D.  You can also see the left half of the bottom frame that the verticals are inserted into and a few airplane holders on the floor.

Frame Assembly and Installation:

The frame is assembled by placing one of the top / bottom frames on the floor, inserting the 4 verticals and then installing the top frame, slipping the fittings over the end of each vertical. Rotate the verticals to a convenient angle spread evenly like the spokes of a wheel.  Each joint, top and bottom should have 2 self drilling cap head screws to hold things in position.

Note the screw head in the elbow below: 

The PVC pipe is flexible enough that it will tip forward as it is loaded.  The top needs anchored to the wall.  I drilled a hole in the back of one tee on each side and ran a long drywall screw into a stud.  You could use drilled anchors if you are against masonry. On drywall there is always wood at the top 2" of the wall.  You could get a couple of screw eyes (at least 1 1/2" of shank and thread) and run them into the wall behind the top frame.  Then tie it back with some small cord or a couple of shoe laces.

Here is my drywall screw attachment:      

Airplane holding arms:

The arms that hold the airplanes are inserted but not glued into the open tee sockets of the verticals. Mine are made from 12" pieces of 1 1/2" PVC pipe with a 4" X 4" piece of 1/4" plywood hot glued on top at one end.  I found that 4" X 4" was not enough so I added two more 4" X 4" pieces hot glued on with a 1" splice to make platforms that measure 4" X 10" net.  Those work pretty well.  I made most with the 10" dimension at 90 degrees to the pipe but a few with it in-line for wider wings, etc.  

 Here is one being inserted:

Everything is hot glued.  I used the cutting board squares for alignment:

I originally had just one 4" X 4" square but found that I needed more area for stability.  I added two more 4" squares laminated with hot melt glue.  The gap was a fortunate accident.  It actually helps grip the models. 

A few holders in position:

That is about it.  Not rocket science.  You should be able to take these ideas and modify them to your situation.

Alternatives:

My arms are all made from 12" PVC but if you have larger models you could make some (or all) longer such as 15" or 16".

I have mostly light foamies. They fit pretty well in the spaces made by the 6" verticals.  If you have larger models you may want to make some of the vertical pipes 8" or 9".  Whatever you do I would run the same spacing all the way across on one level.  Perhaps you could do 3 or 4 rows on the bottom at 8" and the rest at 6". Its up to you.  

Please comment and rate if you like.  I always enjoy tthe conversation and value the feed-back.