Control Surface Repair Tip

by ADHDWald | September 3, 2013 | (4) Posted in How To

This article is about a repair that I did on my Parkfun Fusion.

A while ago I tore off my elevator due to an overly aggressive stabilizer (it didn’t let me correct on my final approach in high grass during the testingfase).

First I taped it on with some tape, which functioned quite well in the beginning. But after a while the tape became loose and there was movement in all kinds of ways that you don’t want on an airplane.

I didn’t have any old floppydisks lying around (would you believe I threw them all away a few weeks ago?) , so I couldn’t cut the item myself. It turned out that in the shop they cost €1.20 (around $1.50 I think).

Basically what it is, is a small, thin, bendable piece of plastic that wants to bend back to its original straight position.

The use is not difficult once you know what to do.

Item list:

Plastic hingeflapthingies (I have no idea what they are actually called!)
Exacto knife/Stanley knife/scalpel (I actually used an operating scalpel)
CA glue
something to mark the locations (pen/pencil)
a ruler (although I eyeballed it and it turned out fine for me)

First make sure you remove any access foam sticking out and make both sides (plane and elevator) as smooth as possible. I did this by using my scalpel and cutting it.)



The plastic flaps are 2.5Cm long (1Inch). I decided I would use 5 millimeters as hingepoint and therefore marked 1Cm from both sides.

 

I then eyeballed the place where they had to go (it is important to get as straight a line as possible, since it needs to hinge as straight as possible.)
I had already decided that I wanted to use 4 on each side, so I started about 5 milimeters of both edges, then divided them over the area with more or less equal space between them.

I marked both sides of the plastic hinge with a little stripe on the elevator  (If you don’t want to do this, you can use a bit of tape or anything that will show a mark and can be removed).
I then marked off the depth I needed on the scalpel using a felt-marker. This way I would only cut as deep as absolutely needed and would leave as much of the structure intact as possible.



Once all the cuts were made, I put a little drop of CA glue on the end that I was going to insert into the cuts. When doing it this way, it smears the glue over the plastic and it gets a nice and even amount. Make sure not to touch it with your fingers, as it will instantly stick them together.
Any excess amount can be wiped off using a piece of old plastic or a tool. (make sure you use something you do not intend on keeping in mint condition ;) ) Do this for all hinges.



Now comes the tricky part: the other side. We now have one side that has all the hinges in place, but it is very important to have the same cuts on the plane too, since it needs to be as horizontal and symmetrical as possible.
What I did was mark the width of the plastic flaps on the other side, making sure I left enough room to not rub against each other while moving.
You can eyeball this part too (I am semi-sloppy/lazy) but in the end mine turned out fine.

Once you have made the cuts on the plane-side you apply the glue to the ends again, then insert them. The really tricky part here is that you need to get them all in at once, before they dry (making sure you don’t stick your fingers together!).

The end result is something that should resemble something like this:

 

I have flown mine a few times now and the result is absolutely marvelous. Not only does it strain your servos a lot less than the normal “pressure bend” that foamies have, it also has a much more linear throw.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask them in the comments, I will try and answer them as soon as possible.

One addition:
I used 4 on each side, after testing I saw I could have done with less, but I will leave it in place anyway (since it has been glued and all ;) )
Less hinges makes it move easier, but it will also make it more fragile, it is your own choice.

Also: you can cut these from old floppy disks, but for this price I just bought them and saved me a lot of work.

 

 

COMMENTS

gr1999 on September 7, 2013
do you mean a CA hinge?
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ADHDWald on September 14, 2013
Hi, I think they are called that, yes.
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solarflash on September 3, 2013
Not sure, but think I have used these hinges on the flaps of some of my control line planes. The ones I used had a wicking material attached to the hinges and the hinges were installed by putting a drop of ca on the balsa, the wick would draw the ca into the hinge. Attached to balsa really well.
Just a tip for what it's worth, you can taper the leading edge of the elevator to a point from both sides that meets in the middle of the elevator and install the hinge on this center line. This will allow you to close up the hinge gap to all but nothing and still allow full deflection of the surface...
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ADHDWald on September 14, 2013
I was thinking of doing that (the tapering) but didn't know how much it would improve control for the amount of work it involves. Do you know something about that? At the moment the plane is flying pretty well, but since I want to make all my hinges like this, this is pretty valuable information for me to have :)
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craftydan on September 3, 2013
While it won't wick, I've found acetate sheets (transparency film) works just as well for a glued hinge, and is readily available in 8.5x11" sheets from any office supply store. A good alternative for a field repair or when the nearest local hobby store ain't so local.
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ADHDWald on September 14, 2013
Good idea! I was first looking for old floppy-disks, but I moved all of them to the dustbin not too long ago (I moved out ;) ) When I was at the hobbystore, I asked them about hinges and got this.
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trumpy959 on September 13, 2013
I've used these CA hinges before on light weight foamies (180-200g) with great sucess. Although I believe they are designed for balsa wood aplications, they seem to stick well in EPP foam. The only problem I had is if i soaked the entire hinge it would become to stiff. My workaround for this was to scrape some of the visiable fiber off from both sides creating an area in the middle where the CA could not go. This way at its hinge point the material stayed more flexible. I like your idea and the use of these a lot!
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ADHDWald on September 14, 2013
I must be honest and say that I didn't glue them in the tail section, but I will probably do so when I am going to use them on other surfaces. THank you for the tip, I think I will put some glue on one of them to see how it reacts to that.
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Control Surface Repair Tip