FTScratchBuild-Advanced
The FT Mighty Mini Arrow is a fantastic choice for getting started in wing racing, combat, or simple FPV flight.
The Mighty mini Arrow can be powered by a 1806 2350kv motor or a 2204 2300kv motor. The 1806 is great for slower non FPV flight, while the 2204 makes this little wing a speedy FPV machine.
To build the Arrow with the center pod, cut away the top surface of the wing along the referance line.
An optional hatch can be cut into both sides of the wing to allow for FPV placement.
Join the wings using tape and glue.
The center pod has cavities to allow electronics to pass through the wings.
You may need to trim your wing halve a little to get the perfect fit between the pod and the top of the wing.
Servos install on the top and recess against the box spar.
The power pod pushes into the back after the ESC has been connected to the motor
The hole in the front of the Arrow can serve as both ventilation and a for the FPV camera to push through.
Our hope is that this little wing will bring many hours of fun to your back yard, or to a race course near you!
FT MIGHTY MINI ARROW SPECS
- Weight without battery: 6 oz (170 g)
- Center of Gravity: 1.75 inches (44 mm) in front of rear firewall
- Control Surface Throws: 12 ˚ deflection (elevator/aileron/rudder) Expo 30%
- Wingspan: 29 inches (736 mm)
- Recommended Motor: 2300 kv 2204 size motor
- Recommended Prop: 6 x 4.5 prop
- Recommended ESC: 12 amp minimum
- Recommended battery: 800 mAH 2s or 3s
- Recommended Servos: (2) 5 gram servos
PICK UP A SPEED BUILD KIT HERE!
FT MIGHTY MINI ARROW PLANS
STORE LINKS
- FT Mighty Mini Arrow Speed Build Kit
- Electronics Pack (Power Pack F)
- Electronics Pack (Power Pack A)
- Transmitters
- Receivers
New to the R/C hobby?
Here's some resources to help get you up to speed!
Beginner Series: WATCH HERE!
Electronics Setup: WATCH HERE!
First Flight Quick Tips: WATCH HERE!
Got glue?? Get Some Here!
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I'm building two of these little wings today, one will have lights installed. Wheee...
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Whatever happened the FliteTest branded DFTB that Flitetest were supposed to be bringing to Europe for sale, that would be great.
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In Sweden it is just foam board or KAPA skiva/platta and could be found all over.
This type of board has been used in the advertising business for ages, used to put large photos or print on them for exhibitions...
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If you are concerned about the weight just buy the board with the thinner paper on it, it can be found here in Sweden also...
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It is simply eps laminated with a thin weight paper. It's the actual paper that gives it its surprising strength for its weight.
Its nominal dimensions are 3/16" thick and 20x30 inches. That's about 5mm and 508x762 mm. (I hope - my metric keyboard is at work - I only have my American one here ;-)
One sheet weighs in at approx 114 grams (give or take a gram).
(If this is available at Ikea, should we call it Ikea Foam Board?)
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Thanks - David
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I might be going blind or can you help me in finding the CG on the scratch build plans please.
Thanks Jack
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REF http://forum.flitetest.com/showthread.php?17136-SP0NZ-Plans-Index/page26 message #255
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In terms of paper size (A4, A3 etc) what size of foam board do I need to get that is big enough for the largest part of the plan? I'm in the UK and am struggling to find foam board for cheap.
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I've just printed out the plans and will start putting them together tonight. But I think it should all fit onto them. If you want quicker hobbycraft sell 1 A1 sheet for about £7
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copied from above.
It's foam from the dollar tree foam, sometimes called DTFB (Dollar Tree Foam Board), they sell it in the FT store as well. It's very light, about 5mm thick, comes in 20"x30" boards for $1 each and is foam with paper adhered to both sides.
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here is link to manual. http://www.spektrumrc.com/ProdInfo/Files/SPM5500-Manual.pdf
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I either have to print them downscaled, or it parts of it gets placed outside the boarders, because of printer margins. This is with a Canon MF8080 printer
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I tend to use the Full version and let it auto tile to fit my paper properly.
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For Europe A4 I rearranged it all a bit: http://docdro.id/UMcVgkt
(Remember to set Page fitting to "none")
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So, while printing the tiled plans, it seems like the images are off centered on the pages. Is this normal? Do I need to scale anything?
First FT plan build, so I want to make sure I get it right!
thanks
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Without doing any changes it only fits a 6 prop.
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http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__91896__DYS_BE1104_4000KV_Multi_rotor_Motor_Black_.html
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What you mean to say is "I want to see one with this motor on a 4s battery"
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__24497__Hobbyking_2825_1950kv_Funfighter_Replacement_Brushless_Outrunner_motor.html
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I've done this in the past when I figured out my printer can print A4-width pages up to 30 inches long; just re-arrange the parts to fit in an A4 width and tape pages together *before* feeding them into the printer.
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A4 PDF: http://docdro.id/UMcVgkt
(To print on A3 just print 2 Pages on one)
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That said, not all printers can do borderless printing right to the edge of the page. If yours does, it should be in the advanced settings somewhere.
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FT also timed this perfectly! A week ago I wanted to buy parts (etc.) for a versa. But this is much more what I want since with my skywalker I already have a stable/slow flying model!
For all those users out there who want to print this on A4: I rearranged it and made it fit in total on 4x3 Sheets. You can download and view it at: http://docdro.id/UMcVgkt
(@FT just wanted to help save a few trees ;) )
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Is the bottom of this airfoil supposed to be flat or is it supposed to have a slight curve? I ask because at about 6:50 in the DIY build video he "applies a fold to establish leading edge curve of the wing". When I do this step the bottom of the airfoil is generally wanting to take a slight curve.
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Can anyone help me out here?
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I bought basically all the colors of wing tape HK sells. Just cover the outside of the wings with tape when it's still flat, and you can fold it just like the foamboard they use in the US. Make sure to gently cut away the tape in areas where you glue to (mainly for the vertical stabilizers and fuselage on this model). Same goes for the fuselage.
Cut out the main shape, tape it up on one side while still flat, trim the tape, and then cut the score cuts.
Benefit: It's immediately colorful. Mine's a lovely red and black.
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I live in the Netherlands and for me it also took a while to find the right material.
But I found a dutch website which is offering almost the same type of foam for a very reasonable price. 10 pieces of 1000X700 mm will cost only € 26,- which seems very fair to me. Probably you can also order from Germany at this shop. http://www.interoffice.nl/nl/kantoorartikelen/product/foamboard-q-connect-70x100cm-2-zijdig-5mm-wit/1695854/index.html
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@Jelle Sarita
Do you know the weight of one of these Q-Connect sheets (100cm*70cm)? Or the weight of 1 g/cm^2? Because this DTFB only weighs 300g/m^2 meaning that a 100cm*70cm DTFB would only weigh 210g (0,03g/cm^2)! That is quite impressiv, because I haven't found anything like it. Here in Germany you can get a foamboard from Modulor.de which weighs 0,048g/cm^2. There are boards from gerstaeker.de with a weight of about 0,05g/cm^2. The only board which comes close to the light weight DTFB is Creat' Airplac with 0,042g/cm^2. I find it hard to believe that we are stuck with these "heavy" boards... Maybe I have to tape a Depron board, but that does not seems so elegant to me....
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thank you very much for the URL, I will buy the foam righ away. I was looking for it since time ago. thank you again.
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There is a corrected version V1.1 which adds CG markings. That plan can be found here http://forum.flitetest.com/showthread.php?17136-SP0NZ-Plans-Index
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Thanks in advance!
Adrian Grey
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As for power, I got a whole bunch Banggood/ebay/AliExpress variable voltage switching step-down regulators for verv very cheap, and they're 11x17mm (around 0.43x0.66"), so very tiny. Will fit easily, weighs nothing.
I'm thinking that putting the transmitter in one of the compartments is a Bad Thing, due to heat.
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It is a pushing prop, so if you buy a cw motor, use a ccw prop and if you buy a ccw motor, use a cw prop :P ... so the adapter is getting thight during spinning.
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Just changing the direction can cause trouble.
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I´ve done now two versions using Depron and Wingtape cause in Germany there is no DTFB.
The 2nd try was made of 3 and 6mm Depron and the Winglets of 5mm EPP. I changed a few things so it is nearly as strong as the normal but incl. the 850 mAh 3S Lipo it only weights 180gramms. Now if the rain ends I´ll give it try.
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Very nice design. Inspired me to build my own using your profiles and Model Plane Foam, which requires a slightly different techniques. Good job!
Ken :)
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Anyone have the measurements of it so I dont have to do the measurements myself?
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Thanks John F.
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You can but I wouldn't recommend it because of the weight and size. You can use the servo's if you want but need a new engine and i recooment a new esc.
DYS BE1806 2300KV - 11euro
FVT LittleBee 20A ESC - 11 euro
10X Gemfan 6030 Direct Drive Propeller - 3,50 euro
Battery is reusable but a 850 mah Turnigy nanotech is about 7 euro's
Goodluck.
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How many watts are you going to throw down yours? 200, 300, 900!
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ps: you can put a 2s battery just sticking to the top and use that for fpv.
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Looking forward to building this one.
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Do not do the scorch cuts! they will make the plane weaker and the wings will brake. Just bend it without the scorch and it will be done. I did this for 3 planes and all good.
Tip 2: Use a bit more tape in the middel on the sides of the pod where the wings attach to make it a bit strongers.
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First had trouble launching, stripped a servo, then after that I had really good luck launching but to no avail it wouldn't go up very far, even full throttle just went up a bit struggled then done a 180 flip but I landed very nicely.
Done this a few times then gave up. Got home and realized it was very over weight by about 400grams total, must have used excessive hot glue 😞.
What's its full weight supposed to be with all hardware without battery 170grams?
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I've activated Setup List>Wing Tail Mix>Elevon = ACT.
Problem #1: Right aileron/roll input produces left turn on the wing. Left aileron/roll input produces right turn on the wing.
Problem #2: Down elevator/pitch input produces left roll on the wing. Up elevator/pitch input produces right roll on the wing.
Thanks for any advice. Still so new to programming, and not sure where to find what I'm sure are very simple changes.
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I watched the FT Episode on mixing elevons (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKqwTQlAWa8) and realized I didn't need the Y-connector I'm using to put both servos into the Aileron Rx port. That allowed the Wing Tail Mix to take effect.
However, I my pitch and roll stick inputs are reversed, meaning:
R input = down pitch on plane
L input = up pitch on plane
UP input = L roll on plane
DOWN input = R roll on plane
Already tried swapping the servo leads on the Rx, but to no avail.
I'm guessing this is an easy fix somewhere in the Tx.
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I had to Menu> Setup List>Reverse the ailerons and then swap servo leads. Took a little but to wrap my head around it, but process of elimination and alternate combinations was all it took.
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(FT Mighty Mini Arrow)
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My name is Yun-Su. I live in Seoul, South Korea.
I want to make "ft mini arrow". So I watched video and made it.
but it can't fly. Also it destroyed when i was thrown it.
I used 5mm foam board(3mm+2mm bifold), 20A ESC, 2300kv motor, and two SG90 9g mini servos(weight 9g, torque 1.8kg)
and i bought horn, push road at shop and just fixed motor rear side.
Is it impossible to fly? If you want some pictures, i can send it by email.
leave your email please. ^^
And give some advises.
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I want to order some 6mm depron board for this wing but don't know how much board is needed for the build.
Does anyone know how much board is used for this wing?The board standard size is 100x100cm (40x40inch)
Thanks!
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I will print full sheet this image, can u tell me size of the paper?
Thanks.,
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I deviate from the stock design by using only the back half of the central pod and joining the spars in the middle.
I use a 2122 2100kv turnigy SK3 and 2s packs
the efficiency and performance of this design are simply phenomenal. I wouldn't be without one
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I used laminate flooring underlay (6mm depron-a-like sheets) and my mate got hold of some foam board
I maidened mine first - checked surfaces had the right throw and direction and the elevator had the right amount of inflection and the CG was slightly nose heavy
gave it 3/4 throttle and tossed it discuss style as shown in the video ...and it plowed straight down into the ground nose first - mates did the same, sub 4 seconds between us for flight times
Undeterred we fixed them up with hotglue and tape and after a bit of unpowered throwing to get the ailerons inflection angle enough to make it glide happily I managed to fly about half a 850 Mah 3s battery before the wet weather made me nervous about the electrics getting killed by the rain that came in
Mine needed a lot more elevator inflection than the gauge suggested
Plane feels pretty stable - even at slower speeds, don't have the trust in it yet to try and catch it on landings
Got there in the end - our hard lessons learned - glide test before attempting powered flight!!!
Mine still needs a little trim, but going to wait till its less damp - hopefully this weekend!
Thanks for sharing the plans and videos :D
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i want to build this plane as a starter during Christmas vacations
i live in India and cant order the Scratch build
can some one please help and give the dimensions of the plane based on the building PDF
Also i wanted to know if this motor is good for the plane as i Can only find this in my vicinity :
Avionic M2230/12 KV 2250 MICRO brushless motor
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Thanks!
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Not too upset about it, just wish the kit came with pusher props as it was clear that It was for the Mighty Mini Arrow on the same order - or at least a hint to order them ahead.
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I tested the CW rotation with the Standard Prop in the A Pak and just as I suspected, it fell off in mid flight, AMAZINGLY, the prop and nut were laying within 3 inches of the wing! I put on more locktite and cranked the nut on very tight and it flew.
The CCW props came in today after the test flight and I will be trading them out to be safer. The A Pak and F Pak motors spin at 2300 KV! (ALMOST 30,000 RPM!!!). I'd rather not have that fly off and turn into a flying circular saw.
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TIP: Both the A Pak and F Pak come with Standard, Puller Props. DON'T FORGET TO ORDER A FEW PUSHER PROPS FROM FLITE TEST!!! Sure, you CAN use a puller prop with locktite and spin the motor CW but it will tend to spin off the nut holding the propellor on, NOT a good thing. Spend the extra $2 and be safe.
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.tank for this good plan .tank you very mach.I need top twin roter gyrokopter paln .pleas put it in this pag .apologize abut my bad writing .
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I highly recommend this plane to anyone. Beginners learn a lot about working with foam and get a quick reward. Experts can fly the wings off this thing. My favorite configuration so far is: 2204 3s 6x4 with the fpv mod and gyro w/ 'locking' mode. Crazy fun.
Just remember: for your 1st and 2nd builds...watch Josh's build video and do exactly what he says, when he says to do it.
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When inserting the center module, I see you only hot glue the bottom of the module to the bottom of the wings. I was surprised they don't have you put hot glue on the top edge of the wing where it butts against the center module. The only thing preventing the wings from folding down into themselves is that small bead of glue you apply as a fillet? Seems like there should be more to prevent the wings from collapsing downward.
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My setup:
1600mah 3S battery
20A esc
2208 2000+kv motor with 6x45 prop
Flying weight 450g
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I built this Wing from scratch. I'm getting better ;-) . Now I wonder how much weight I have to put into the nose to get the right CG. The Battery isn't heavy enough to blance out even without the Motor. Now if I mount the power pod with the Motor from PowerPack A, It will be so tail heavy.... HELP, how did you do it?
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thanks for the plans
where can i send you photos
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