FTScratchBuild
Introducing the FT SE5 Biplane, an easy to build and easy to fly WWI style biplane!
Start by building the power pod. Don’t forget to make sure the screws are not close to the motor windings, otherwise you could damage your motor.
Connect your ESC and make sure your motor is spinning counter clockwise.
Remove the fuselage pieces and cavities in the foam. Remove the paper from one side of the cheek piece and the doublers.
Fold along the crease lines. Perform an A fold on the center support piece. Fold the sides of the fuselage up and glue them down. After it dries, glue down the bottom plate.
Add the notch piece and glue it down to the back of the fuselage. Reinforce the fuselage with the side cheek doublers.
When the doublers are dry, install the bottom wing saddle piece to finish off the fuselage.
Before you tackle the tail assembly, make sure your servos are centered.
Remove the rudder and elevator tail pieces. Cut a single sided bevel on the stabilizer side of the elevator.
Repeat the same process on the rudder. Attach the rudder to the elevator. After the elevator is dry, attach the tail assembly to the fuselage.
Install your control horns and push rods. Then install your servos.
Remove the two wing pieces. Score along the main seam of the bottom wing. Install the under camber gauges and hold the back portion down. When you’re happy with the fit, put glue into the seam.
Remove the gauges, and pop out the small cutouts on each side. Install the dihedral gauges. Make sure the arrows on the dihedral gauges are pointing forward.
Flip the wing over, and hold down the center section. Place glue in the seams of the center section and remove the excess.
Repeat the same process on the top wing.
Install the formers on the fuselage, then install the poster board on the back and front of the fuselage.
Attach the bottom wing to the bottom of the fuselage. After it dries, install the large wing struts on both sides of the wing.
Test fit the top wing on top of the struts. Make sure the leading edges of both wings are parallel to each other. When you’re satisfied with the fit, glue it down.
Install the cobains on the wings. Use the brace to make sure the wings and struts all stay together while the cobains dry.
Flip the plane over and install the landing gear, wheels and tail skid.
Install and connect your electronics. Test your electronics, and you’re ready to maiden!
FT MINI SE5 SPECS
WEIGHT WITHOUT BATTERY: 8.8 oz (250 g)
CENTER OF GRAVITY: Directly on the fold of the top wing
CONTROL SURFACE THROWS: 12 ̊ deflection (elevons) – Expo 30%
WINGSPAN: 24 inches (609 mm)
RECOMMENDED MOTORS: 2204 sized 2300 kv minimum
RECOMMENDED PROP: 6 x 4.5 prop CCW
RECOMMENDED ESC: 12 amp minimum
RECOMMENDED BATTERY: 800 mAH 3s minimum
RECOMMENDED SERVOS: (2) 5 gram servos
PICK UP A SPEED BUILD KIT HERE!
FT MINI SE5 PLANS
STORE LINKS
https://store.flitetest.com/ft-mighty-mini-se5-biplane/
https://store.flitetest.com/power-pack-f/
New to the R/C hobby?
Here are some resources to help get you up to speed!
Beginner Series: WATCH HERE!
Electronics Setup: WATCH HERE!
First Flight Quick Tips: WATCH HERE!
Scratch Building without Knives: WATCH HERE!
Got glue?? Get Some Here!
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Download them here: http://www.mediafire.com/file/a9dbtmlyncdx6qj/FT_Tiny_SE5_BB_V2.zip
A paper Lewis gun is in the works. Please post pics on the forums when your done.
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Question, both the SE5 and the Tiny Trainer use a 2300 motor. Why is this suggested to be a 2204 vs 1806?
Please keep them comming
Bill
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I have also found that the Zippy 1000 & 500 are wider than the powerpod. In order to slide the battery into a Tiny trainer or the SE5, using a Zippy, I modified the cheeks. With this bird he cheeks are 2 lauers of DTFB -paper on each side. I cut the inner most layer of the cheek material, just below where the powerpod sits. This gave me width to spare.
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Btw, I made a timelapse of my scratch-build ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNhghzNpJfg ) I'm finally getting the hang of building with foam.
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Misspelled in the DR1 thread as well.
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Thanks
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