Here's a simple step-by-step instructional tutorial to finishing your balsa wood models with a traditional tissue covering.
Covering with tissue is quite inexpensive and not much of a scary process. This method has been used ever since the beginnings of aeromodelling and it still stands up. You can end up with some really nice vintage looking airplanes if you build this way. All you'll need are a few supplies and a little patience to get started.
You will need:
- A soft wide paint brush
- Cellulose Dope
- Cellulose Thinners
- PVA Glue (optional)
- Eze Dope (optional)
- A well-ventilated room
Stage 1
If you haven't ever applied a covering to a balsa model before, try choosing a simple section to start with. A horizontal stabilizer is a good option. First cut a slightly oversized piece of tissue for the lower side of the frame. There are Lots of methods for attaching tissue to the balsa. One method is to use a glue stick. PVA glue thinned down with water 50/50 is also a good way to go about securing the covering. Simply 'outline' the frame by painting the edges with the glue. Be liberal with it as it tends to soak into the wood quickly. Next, place on the tissue and leave to dry.
Stage 2
Next, lay another oversized piece of tissue across the other side of the frame again using glue. Remove creases and wrinkles by pulling it snuggly around the edges. However, don't pull too hard as the tissue might rip. Another product you could use at these early stages isEze Dope. This is a waterbased product that is easy to work with. It's great for fixing the tissue to the frame.
When you've done, make sure the edges are neat by going over them with some glue whilst pressing down loose ends with a finger.
Stage 3
At this stage, we're ready to shrink the tissue so that it forms a tight skin over the frame. Some people like to use alcohol for this, but you can just use tap water. Some sort of atomizer plant spray bottle or similar can be used to wet the entirety of the tissue evenly. As the surface dries, it will tighten the material around the wood. You don’t want it to be dripping wet, just slightly moist. Pin the frame back to your building board to ensure that the assembly doesn’t warp as the tissue contracts.
Stage 4
This is where we dope the tissue. Water-based dopes can be used, but these don’t always hold up to the elements too well. Cellulose Dope, when diluted with thinners to 50%, leaves a great robust finish on your model when dry. Good ventilation is required when using these kinds of solvents, so make sure to open a window or two.
Thin even strokes with a brush are all that's needed. Make sure to go over it with two more thin coats. After you're done with that, leave to dry for a good few hours.
We hope you found this guide helpful! If you want to know more about building balsa aircraft, you can read our Beginner's Guide along with an article with 10 tips for Building with Balsa. Also, make sure to check out the review of the Vintage Model Company Cessna Bird Dog that came out last month - it's a great kit!
Happy Building!
Article by James Whomsley
Editor of FliteTest.com
Contact: james@flitetest.com
YouTube Channel: www.youtube.com/projectairaviation
I like my Clipped Wing Cub J3 cub 250 by eflite (and the J4 Grasshopper 250) but haven't flown them because I can not replace anything that breaks.
Is there any chance you can make this type of kits available again?
How about creating kits, or doing a build on converting rubber powered to rc?
I also purchased models from www.stevensaero.com in Colorado Springs, CO. Perhaps ypu can even do a show about other small manufacturers. I would even be happy if you just made an episode about laser cutters for a DIY thing.
Anyways, thanks for encouraging balsa builds.
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