Vacuum former and Stealth Versa Wing

by psychedvike | October 4, 2014 | (17) Posted in Projects

 

Hi, this is my first time submitting an article to Flite Test. I have really enjoyed the videos and build plans. I have been a scratch builder for a long time and like to try all sorts of different types of methods and materials to build from. I really like to recycle anything I can to create RC aircraft. I recently made my own vacuum forming setup. I built a versa wing and used this setup to make some parts. The results were pretty good for a first try and so I thought I would share them with Flite Test and all the people who enjoy this site like I do.

 

To start this project I built a versa wing in a pusher configuration just as Josh shows in his build videos. The only thing I would add is that I recommend removing to paper in the spot under the servos. Then hot glue the servo directly to the foam. I found the paper delaminated from the foam. Leaving the servo lose inside the wing after I assembled the wing and installed the linkage. The only other difference is I used dollar tree foam that has black paper on it for a stealth look.  

The motor cover, servo linkage covers, and lower fuselage were vacuum formed from .20 ABS. The vacuum former is really just three pieces, shop vac, a heat source, and a vacuum box.

 

I made my vacuum box from scrap oak boards I salvaged from a dumpster from a nearby business that was being remodeled. I also used a left over piece of peg board for the top and a 1/4 inch piece of plywood for the bottom.  Any plywood or board would work.  The outside dimensions are 12 ½”x 24 ½”. The size can be changed to fit what you plan to form of course. This size allows a 12” x 24” piece of plastic to be used. A hole to fit your vacuum hose is cut into one side of the box.  

 

 

The next part of the box is a top frame to hold the plastic sheet. It should fit snugly around the box. Inside the outer frame is another frame to sandwich the plastic and hold it in place while it is heated and vacuum formed. I used ¼ 20 countersunk screws and T nuts to hold the pieces in place. I used window screen frame to make the inner frame, again because I picked it up cheap at a thrift store. Any thin material like hard board or plywood could be used. The last piece to be made is the top of the frame which is another piece of hard board cut to fit over the frame and the center is cut out to match the size of the inner frame.  The last thing I did was to add a piece of screen over the peg board. This really helps the plastic to pull down tight around the lower edges of your form (aka buck), and a strip of dollar tree foam around the edge to make a seal between the box and frame. 

 

 

 

 

My heat source is made from plywood I had left over from another project. It is also 12 ½” x 24 ½” to allow the frame to fit over it. It is about 12” tall. The height was determined by the size of the leftover pieces I had. But 12” seems to be about right.  Inside it is lined with aluminum roasting pans. It took three of them to cover it. Tin foil or whatever could be used. It is there to reflect the infrared heat to the plastic and it also does to good job of keeping the box from getting too hot. I just cut the pans into pieces and stapled them to the inside of the box. The first try at heating element was a single hot plate but the plastic just didn’t get hot enough.  So I got two elements from a rotisserie I got at the thrift store for 10 dollars. I took it apart. I then wired it to a switch. I also added a switched outlet for the shop vac to quickly switch it on and off. I see many people on YouTube who just put the whole frame in their oven to heat it but my wife would kill me if I tried that.  That is all there is to the heater.

 

 

 

 I got most of the ideas for making the vacuum former on YouTube. RC Groups also has some good information. The forms or bucks as they are called need to be smooth or the imperfections will transfer to the parts you are trying to make. I cut these bucks out on my table saw and sanded them smooth.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finally, I got the graphics for the decals from RC Groups and resized them to suit my plane with Micro Soft Word. I printed them on label paper but they didn’t stick too well. I found that it worked better to print them on plain paper and brush them on with white glue thinned with water. The windows were a challenge. They started out as SR 71 windows. I had to stretch and paste and crop to get the right shape.

 

 


 

 

There is one final thought about safety. The heater box is made from wood. The elements get red hot. The sides don’t seems to get hot while heating the plastic sheet but it takes a few minutes to let the ABS get hot enough to start to sag about an inch to two inches before moving to the vacuum box. The heater must never be left unattended when plugged in. The parts get hot so you must be careful not touch the inside of the heater. As with any DYI electric wiring you need to know what you’re doing when you wire it. So if anyone wants to build one for them self, please be sure you don’t get hurt by these dangers and any others that might not be foreseen at this time.

This was a fun project. There are some blemishes in the final result because I came across some unexpected issues, the servos both pulled the paper loose from the foam, so I had to punch a hole thru the wing and use gorilla glue to reglue them in place.  The bottom fuselage took a couple of ideas before I came up with the best way to hold it in place. The graphics took a little tinkering to get them to stick to the paint. And I might have put a little too much weight in the front. A 2200 makes it a little nose heavy. I am pleased with how it looks but orientation is going to be a little tricky. I think I might make another one and try to get the finished product a little cleaner. I still have the bucks so I can remake all the plastic parts any time I want.

Thanks to Josh and all at Flite Test for the awesome plans and a place to share our projects and ideas.

COMMENTS

LordVader on October 4, 2014
That's not bad at all, it doesn't break the bank and enhances the look of the plane. Really finishes it off nice. I am definitely going to check into this a lot more. Thanks for the info.
Log In to reply
psychedvike on October 5, 2014
The sheets are huge too. You can cut 16, 12"x24" pieces for one sheet.
Log In to reply
SOOFLY on October 6, 2014
Very nice work! I remember seeing an article on RCgroups where a guy was using thin plastic dinner plates from the grocery store as his plastic stock.
Log In to reply
Hell2Go on October 8, 2014
My buddy and i were just talking about building one a couple weeks ago and BAM! There it is on Flite test. I gotta build it now. Do you have a downloadable plan and parts list to make it easier for the rest of us to follow in your footsteps. Thankyou for sharing! :-)
Log In to reply
psychedvike on October 9, 2014
I'm sorry I didn't draw up a plan. I just pieced it together as I went along. The way I made it from leftover material might be hard to duplicate. Basically it's a box 12"x24". and then make the rest to fit that size box. I know that's probably not much help. Good luck with yours. I'm sure you will build a good one. Post yours when you get it going.
Log In to reply
VAND3R on October 8, 2014
Nice! I built a vacuum former last year, I was never able to use it though because I couldn't find any plastic sheets for it. Looks good man!
Log In to reply
LordVader on October 4, 2014
Very cool, I like the vacuum former. May have to try and build one of those. Where do you get the plastic sheets at? Would love to try and make a whole plane like this.
Log In to reply
psychedvike on October 4, 2014
I am lucky enough to have a plastic supplier a couple miles from my house. I found a local supplier online by searching ABS sheet supplier and vacuum forming supplies and PETG which is the clear plastic for canopies etc. It is available from amazon but it is not as inexpensive to buy from them due to shipping costs. I paid $10 for a 4'x8' sheet of .20 ABS and $18 for the same size of PETG. I think .30 or even .40 would have been a better choice. The parts are very light but a little thicker would have been better.
Log In to reply
HilldaFlyer on October 14, 2014
psychedvike, Very cool! I love DIY stuff like this - you are in a nice crowd here. If you wouldn't mind answering a question kind of unrelated to your molding. Have you had any CG problems with your Versa with the setup as pictured? I built one like this and it was so tail (rear) heavy that it wouldn't fly smoothly.
Log In to reply
psychedvike on October 16, 2014
Yes the pusher setup is very tail heavy. I ended up putting a lot of lead in the leading edge to get it to balance right. My local hobby shop has strips of lead with adhesive back. I cut a slot in the front and slid it inside and then glued it back together. Even with the added weight it flies nice.
Log In to reply
flight monkey on February 10, 2015
hey thanks, for the info on where to get sticky lead weights.
Log In to reply

You need to log-in to comment on articles.


Vacuum former and Stealth Versa Wing