Peter developed a cool way to waterproof your foam board airplane. You might have seen the results of this technique in our Planes: Fire Rescue episode.
The coating will vary in smoothness based on how many coats you apply and how much sanding you do.
You'll need Water Based Minwax Polycrylic, Brown Kraft paper, and Baby powder.
The key ingredient to this trick is Water Based Minwax Polycrylic.
Cut the paper to size and coat it with the Water Based Minwax Polycrylic before applying to your airplane.
Also, brush on the Polycrylic to the fuselage of your foam board airplane.
The each coat dry and sand with 220 grit sandpaper.
Peter recommends that you only use this technique on the fuselage of your airplane, not on the wings.
Adding some baby powder with a 1 to 1 ratio to your Polycrylic will give you a nice sand'able coating.
Be sure to share your tips in the comments and join in on the discussion in the forum HERE!
Apparently Ronseal used to sell it years ago, but it was only available to the trade in 1000 litre lots, or something equally as useless to us modellers.
Unless, of course, you know different...
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Good job guys!!
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And please make the build video for the C119 boxcar soon, my kids so want to put a teddybear in and see it fly!
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1) You mentioned that you don't do wings... why not?
2) I've experienced warping issues with flat surfaces (FT-22 wings) after treating with oil-minwax and paint. Does this resurfacing cause warping of flat surfaces?
3) Have you tired to recover a sheet of DTFB before cutting out and gluing? How about after cutting but before gluing?
Thanks - great technique.
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I've used 60 lb kraft paper with Titebond 3 to reinforce a Radian. (I think that's made of Elapor, isn't it?) Works nicely and is pretty smooth even if you don't sand it. Very easy to put on. Thin the TItebond with a bit of water so it brushes out nicely. I'm not sure how much, might be up to 50 percent. Paint on the paper until it's pretty well saturated. Then put some on the foam. Brush and squeegee the paper in place. A credit card works, as I recall. It's ok to brush on some more at this point, but be sure to squeegee it off. If you wait a week, it might be waterproof, but it's pretty strong as soon as it's really dry. Titebond 3 is supposed to be waterproof, or at least very water resistant after a week, but I was only going for reinforcement.
I also used that paper with epoxy to sheet a foam wing. It was a little heavier than it should have been for a hlg wing. 40 lb kraft might have been better, but I don't know where to get it in small amounts. For epoxy, spread out the epoxy on the paper and let it soak in for, say, 5 minutes. Then scrape it off and do the other side the same way. Get it all scraped off, then vacuum bag it to the wing. Seems to be very tough.
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