FTScratchBuild
Otherwise, the free build plans are at the bottom of this article.
We recommend starting with the wing plate. Everything will connect to the wings and will give you a great base to work from.
Here is the installation of the side plates.
The FT-22 Raptor features these cool things called elevons.
For you newbies out there, when an aileron and an elevator love each other very much, they get together and make elevons.
They combine the functions of both ailerons and elevators into one control surface.
The channel dug out in the foam helps prevent the push-rods from flexing, keeping your controls nice and true.
We used a new technique for the nose of the FT-22. It is completely constructed of foam board making it extremely rigid and durable. Watch the video to see how!
Here, Josh makes sure to measure the angle on the vertical stabilizers, and you should too!
The FT-22 Raptor is enjoyable by new and veteran pilots alike. If you are looking for a first time build, or just something to break up your usual build styles, this is the plane for you!
For recommended electronics, check here!
FREE Build Plans:
If you have any tips, mods, or anything you'd like to discuss, chat it up in the forums!
As always, you are the ones who make these builds possible and we appreciate each and every one of you! THANKS!
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_PdPg4ayp4
LooseBruce
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thanks
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Good on Bixler and the FT crew for challenging us with new building tricks and also branching out from the swappables (though a special swappable 'pusher-pod' for this and the Versa would be sweet!).
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RICHGCOOP
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The tutorial videos are great! I would never had started to do this without you guys! I love the show.
Even with all this tutorials I need some extra help.
I have some very important questions that needed for my good progression.
The first thing is the base material, the foam. I think you did not covered this part enough.
I'm from Europe (Hungary), and I find it difficult to find the proper matching material.
What I need is the thickness (5mm or 6mm?), the weight in gram, and the exact material type.
Here what I found is the following that could work but I do not know which one Flitetest using.
XPS, EPS or EPP, or EPE?
Currently I have a 6mm EPP but it is very hard to work with and the bubbles are too big to make small inside cuts (long cuts are ok). My first try was a Delta swappable, and it is almost ready, but still have to make the motor mount.
The next question is about the motor mounts:
Again, what type of wood you are using,and what is the thickness.
The last thing is the motor types. You recomended some and I got those, but some of them do not come with a motor mount plate and a prop saver.
Also they not include screws. For one of the motor I had no idea how I suppose to fit a propeller on it and how to mount it to the plane because it was all backwards or something.
Some items need soldering, which was not a problem since I ordered the plugs. But for other newcomers you should warn people about these little parts too and the different standards.
+ Recomend some battery chargers too.
First everything looked cheap easy and good, but when I started to find out have many extra little things are missing it started to worry me and thinking where is it going to end.
I hope my feedback helps the show, and I thank you in forward for the reply about the materials needed.
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What is styrofoam???
If so what type of stryrofoam in use???
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I did check my scale, and I have build most of the FT planes and many others from the same foam and same layout process. On the one hand I believe I did something wrong, on the other it really looks like the layout on this might have been poorly designed. That laser cutter might be getting to the crews head a little. I wonder when the last time they actually put together their plans and cut the plane out by hand actually was... I don't blame you, I would only use the laser too, but I don't own one and so I have to do it by hand and some of this isn't really doable by hand. For example, the rounding on some of the inside corners. I haven't found a good way to cut that sharp of a curve with a straight razor that is much larger than the inside diameter of the curve.
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I'm new the hobby, I've got less than a year of flying and this was also my first delta style plane(i dont count the 1 minute flight i had on my striker) so i would recommend this plane to a newbie wanting to try out a delt plane with some style.
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I have just one question the assembly: There was not a cut across the wing like in the kit that Josh filled with hot glue. Perhaps a reinforcement area? Bamboo, carbon or is it necessary to cut and glue?
Thanks everyone.
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I hope someone, if I make something, me some details.
Thank you.
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got the video on my camera.. would love to share!!
how do I upload the video?
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i don't know how the plane came up so heavy, it's made out of kappa board, i think it's almost the same as dollar tree board.
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I am new at scratch building and need to know how to tell the print shop (Office Depot) to print the plans, if i wanted to print the full size plans what size paper do they need to be printed on and at what % ? Thanks
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iXwYQxSBuCg
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I am planning on building one that has vectoring thrust.
Any ideas, suggestions or stories?
Thanks guys and to Flitetest: Thanks for the great work, I really appreciate it! ;)
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Looking at making up the Raptor - wonderful you guys do a full PDF of the plans . Question , why not EDF ? no worries dragging the prop on landing !
And also , there seems to be a lot of waste material on your sheet , how about a second nose assembly as it would be of some use eventually !!! Keep it up !
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Here is a neat trick to cutting these bad boys out
http://youtu.be/SE_-nTxzMb8
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This is a video of our 2 F22 Raptor:
http://youtu.be/-AJvT97Vh94?list=UU8EyC_jiYAsYF_7F7Yd2bPQ
Please enjoy...
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Check your prop as it may be on backwards. The prop size indicators on the prop hub should always be facing forward regardless. Check the three leads from your motor to the ESC. You may need to switch any one of the three wires around to get the pusher effect of your motor.
Ruben English
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Another suggestion is to add two horizontal bamboo skewers thru the fuselage and removable canopy pod to hold it in place (no taping required). Just place one skewer near the front and one near the rear of the canopy. Be sure to add a short piece of fuel tubing to the ends to hold the skewer in place and prevent slippage.
Happy Flying!
Ruben English
AMA 5813
Byron, GA
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I had a similar situation as you. My F-22 wanted to veer to the left real bad when hand launched. I discovered that I had a warped wing. Thus acting much like an aileron that made the plane want to bank to the left and nose into the ground. I look at the plane from the nose to the tail and saw the warp in the wing. I gently applied pressure to the wing tips in the opposite direction (up/down) and corrected the problem. After you try this, be sure to look again (front to tail) to see if the warp is gone. You might also check your CG. My plane flies like its on rails now.
Ruben English
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Thanks for a great plan, keep up the great work and videos.
I just completed this relatively simple scratch build here in Oz. I use the local foamboard, which from past experience is a little heavier. However the build with just servos and nothing else came in just over FT spec at 240g.
Previous builds I have done have all required more nose weight to get the CG right. This time however it is the other way round.
I'm using a smallish 130W Turnigy 2627 1200kV motor with an 8x6 prop. I find I have to have the battery (1000mA 3S 100g) stuffed right back in the fuselage, not in the spot under the canopy.
That said, it flew very well. My throws were too big, so was quite twitchy. I felt you needed a good bit of speed, but it does fly slow ok which makes landing gentle.
As others have said, to mantain level flight you need a little bit of up-elevator.
John
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