FTScratchBuild
The FT Sparrow is the perfect plane to learn together, build together and fly together. We designed the Sparrow so that it can be built in less than 45 minutes using all the skills needed to build FT planes.
The Sparrow makes a great chuck glider or 3 channel R/C aircraft, and it can even be outfitted for FPV!
The FT Sparrow wing has three pieces: the main piece and two small spars. Glue the spars down on the wing.
Use a marker to make a double bevel cut, fold the wing over and glue it down.
Don’t forget to reinforce the seams with glue!
Use the dihedral gauge while you put glue in the center seam of the wing. Once that dries, reinforce the seam with tape to make the wing shape nice and strong.
If there is too much glue in the seams, remove it to keep excess weight off the plane.
Follow the score lines on the fuselage using a gift card. Use your fingernails to remove the excess foam.
Remove the paper from the foam board that will be curved around the nose, then use glue to secure the nose doublers.
Use a B fold on the sides of the fuselage and glue them down. Try to keep the sides as close to a 90 degree angle as possible.
Glue the tail portion of the fuselage together.
Wrap the foam around the bottom of the nose and secure it with glue. After that dries, crack the seam on the hatch and glue down the portion that meets the front of the nose.
Reinforce the nose and hatch using glue. Then pop out the tabs on the bottom side of the fuselage.
Use glue to attach the skid to the bottom of the fuselage.
Pop out the thrower hole, and use a marker to smooth the edges.
Tape the two tail pieces together on one side to make the V wing. Peel off the excess tape.
Use a marker to crush the center edge. Put glue down the center and use the triangle gauge to hold the shape as it dries.
Install the tail to the back of the fuselage. If the tail isn’t flesh against the reference lines, use your marker to increase the angle of the foam inside the fuselage. Glue the tail to the fuselage, making sure the tail matches the reference lines.
Use a barbecue skewer to open up the reference holes in the fuselage and tail, and slide the skewer through. Cut away the excess, leaving a centimeter on either side.
Insert the cut-down skewer into the tail. Loop two rubber bands on the skewer before pulling it through the other side.
Pass the skewer through the nose. Leave about a thumb’s length on both sides of the nose and cut off any excess skewer.
Place the wing on top of the fuselage, and secure the rubber bands to the skewer on the side of the nose.
Add clay to the front nose until the plane is balanced.
Lightly lift up both sides of the elevator to give it about a millimeter of deflection on both sides.
You've now completed the free flight glider version of the FT Mighty Mini Sparrow. From here you can continue to convert it into an R/C plane!
Drag a gift card through the score cuts on the power pod, and use your fingernails to remove the excess foam.
Apply glue to the sides of the power pod. Make sure each side is perpendicular.
Glue the firewall to the top of the power pod. After the glue dries, reinforce the firewall and power pod with tape. Cut out the tape over the holes in the firewall.
Use the shortest screws to attach the motor. Leave the wire leads on the outside.
Remove the wings and loosely fit the prop to the power pod. Place the power pod on the tail and make indicator lines before mounting the power pod with glue.
Lightly cut the indicator lines out and remove that chunk of foam.
Fold the elevators over and cut a bevel to make a hinge. Reinforce the hinge line with glue.
Place the power pod and make sure it is spaced correctly. Secure the power pod with glue.
Make a score line on the fuselage for the push rods. Pass the push rod through to make sure it does not bind.
Snake the control horns through the push rod and glue the control horns to the tail.
Make a modified Z bend on the push rods, and cut off the excess wire.
Remove the sticker from the servo, and scratch the servo so the glue has something to stick to.
Lace the servo arm into the push rod and glue the servo into place. Repeat the process with the other servo.
Remove the prop and tape down the control wires at the back before installing the ESC. Tuck the ESC wires underneath the barbecue skewer before connecting them to the control wires.
Connect the ESC to the receiver, and bind the receiver to the transmitter.
Install the prop so the numbers are facing the nose. Make sure the prop is spinning clockwise. Attach the proper bushing and mount the prop.
Glue the receiver inside the fuselage with the antenna sticking out of the bottom.
Install the wing and check the balance of the plane. Once it is balanced, connect the electronics and adjust the throw.
The FT Sparrow balances optimally with a 1000mAh 3S battery. If you have FPV gear or a smaller battery, you may need to add more nose weight.
The FT Sparrow is ready for test flight!
FT SPARROW SPECS
Weight without battery: 6.5 oz (187 g)
Center of Gravity: 2.75 in (69 mm) from leading edge of wing
Control Surface Throws: 12° deflection (elevons) Expo 30%
Wingspan: 28.5 in (723 mm)
Recommended Motor: 2300 kv 1806 size motor
Recommended Prop: 5 x 3 - 6 x 3 prop
Recommended ESC: 12 amp minimum
Recommended battery: 800 mAh 3S minimum
Recommended Servos: (2) 5 gram servos
PICK UP A SPEED BUILD KIT HERE!
FT SPARROW PLANS
FT Mighty Mini Sparrow (TILED A-Size)
FT Mighty Mini Sparrow (TILED B-Size)
FT Mighy Mini Sparrow (ALL IN ONE)
STORE LINKS
https://store.flitetest.com/ft-mighty-mini-sparrow/
https://store.flitetest.com/power-pack-a-minis/
New to the R/C hobby?
Here are some resources to help get you up to speed!
Beginner Series: WATCH HERE!
Electronics Setup: WATCH HERE!
First Flight Quick Tips: WATCH HERE!
Scratch Building without Knives: WATCH HERE!
Got glue?? Get Some Here!
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
http://www.lfarmory.com/webapps/RC/Plans/FTSparrow/FT%20Sparrow%20Swappable%20Mod%20-%20Beta%20v.1.pdf
Log In to reply
i am from canada just by ottawa
we have greath hobby but does not have it
ordering fom US cost us way to much ,with the exchange and duty
a big thanks for the plans
i love it
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
I currently use the HobbyKing foam and tape. Cheap!
Log In to reply
Other thing that can be used to cover the plane and make the A and B folds is vinyl, it has more colors than comum tapes, but it's heavier than package tape.
Hope this could help someone with the same problens as I had when I figured how to built the FT planes.
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Although removing the tape from the firewall is a valid point, electric motors have lots of torque. Ask Anyone who races RC cars.
Log In to reply
Couple of skewers and its done.
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJvH5WE647c
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
As the Kit has them at 2.75 and it seems to fly fine as glider and powered I would say published plan is marked wrong.
Please amend plan
Log In to reply
Has been proven by test flight at 2.75 (completely hairy and tail heavy, 1.75 flew on rails.
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
can i use 2S 900mah battery for this?
Log In to reply
I am almost finished scratch building the Sparrow. Is the CG confirmed to be 1.75 in from the leading edge or is it 2.75 in? It will be a shame to crash on the maiden flight!
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
thanks for the help.
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
From the leading edge and it flew like dump! I finally found the right cg further into the comments here and flew it again. It flew great until it spiraled uncontrollably into a puddle. Servo must have went haywire or something.Time to build another. It is very fun.
Log In to reply
Hate to beat a dead horse here but do we really have a confirmation of the CG on this bird? Someone above states 1.75 flies on rails and 2.75 flies barely at all, however, going by the markings on the printed plan, I had to put an 1800 3 cell in the nose before it was even close to balanced. My sparrow is complete aside from CG, but I won't maiden until I'm 100% certain where it is. I'm sure I'm not the only one that would love a confirmation from the awesome FT crew...???
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
(BTW, sorry for my english I am from Argentina)
Log In to reply
Looks like a great kit for the beginners, providing they have no nerves, or nerves of steel, ha ha...
Mine is on black foamboard and the only motor I have is the "Grand Turbo GT2205/22 for 6" props.
It's going to need a larger MM, but I don't think this will hinder the operation of it... On a 450mAh lipo, 2S..
Have built many of FT's foamies and this one looks like a "Hoot"..
Art.
Log In to reply
Frankly, you said "Install the prop so the numbers are facing the nose" so why not also say "Make sure the prop is spinning counter-clockwise when viewed from the nose of the plane". This way the idea is the same regardless of whether it is a pusher or a tractor setup.
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
To get the proper CG, (!.75"}, i used Plumbers putty. All in all with servos mounted sideways, sticking through the fuse, rearward, I found it quite tail heavy, but the plumbers putty brought it up to the proper location.
Orange HS receiver, 10amp ESC, and an 800mAh lipo, 2S, it's ready to go..... I think I'll name it---- "You Try It!". It looks like quite a handfull for an old buzzard line me....(82Years young)...
Hopefully I'll have some video of the maiden and will try to get it attached on FT's pages....
Now for a water craft...
Art.
Log In to reply
I don't seem to be able find it.
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Log In to reply