FTScratchBuild-Beginner
In this updated video Josh walks us through the Nutball scratch build. This plane is very cheap to build and flies great. Watch this episode to see more.
Click HERE to see the original FT NUTBALL BUILD VIDEO.
The plans for this build are available here:
Click HERE to see the POWER POD BUILD VIDEO.
Click HERE to see the Recommended Electronics
Click HERE to see a complete list of FLITE TEST SCRATCH BUILDS
Special thanks to these guys! Check out their threads...
Gene Bond's Nutball Plans:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=836389&page=2
GoldGuy's RC Groups Nutball Thread:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=836389
KFm4 build on a 36" Nutball using 6mm Depron or FFF
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did you get some bullet connectors so you can connect the motor to the speed controller? did you get a matching plug thats on the battery for the speed controller too? so you can connect the battery? I didnt know about this when i first ordered my parts too. as for which way the motor is ment to spin, just make sure the letters on the prop are facing forwards, and if you run it, just feel which way the motor is blowing, does it feel like its pushing air backwards? if not just switch two of the wires between the motor and the speed controller
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You could get a Turnigy 9x which is way more advanced than what you need but you'll have room for growth!
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Thanks and keep up the good work.
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Then print the PDF and put the pages together to form your full-scale schematics.
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Also, there should be a way to scale the schematic for different sizes other than the 17"
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FliteTest can you possibly post a PDF build for this plane?
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Also, Josh referenced another plane that could use the same fuselage. Where would I find the PDF for that plane.
I appreciate you taking the time to respond.
My father and I really like this website. I am 49 years old and my father 70. We are getting into this hobby together. This hobby is bringing my father and I closer together. And it is also encouraging my father to be more physically active. I haven't seen him get so excited about anything for quite some time.
Sincerely,
Brad Cox
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Will someone, anyone...flitetest personnel or not, tell me where to find a printable copy of the plans Josh demonstrated in the video!
I can not understand why this was posted in May and it is now December and there is still not any clear direction to this information.
I hate for my first post here to sound so negative but geepers my head is already spinning just trying to find somewhere simple to start with this hobby. Finally found where to start and still can't progress with the plans. (I know, maybe my username should have been 'Mr. Happy' instead of 'flysomeday')
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http://forum.flitetest.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=5273&d=1343237175
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Page 3, post #26
http://forum.flitetest.com/showthread.php?1681-NutBall-Scratch-Build/page3&highlight=nutball
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the problem is that the plans I got on the website are not the same one's that you build in the video it does not have the electronic box that you build and put on the bottom. and the above has no dimensions on it for the box thanks
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I am wondering if I will ever be able to successfully 'pilot' anything. I don't want to quit though, it seems like it could be fun. And, propellers are not that expensive but i would like to know I can do this without being the owner of 500 damaged propellers. I am fretting like Josh says not to, so I hope this will be of encouragement to anyone that feels like they are the only one with experiences like this. As it has seemed to me like it should be a piece of cake but my experience so far has proved otherwise.
Tomorrow is a new day and I shall press on (when I get some new props of course)
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1. Those who crash.
2. Those who lie.
Thanks for being one of the honest ones :)
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Thanks
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8045 SF Props 2pc Standard Rotation/2 pc RH Rotation (Blue)
Turnigy 1000mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack
Hobbyking SS Series 18-20A ESC
hexTronik 24gram Brushless Outrunner 1300kv
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I recently quit flying a full scale powered parachute after 15 years and am now flying (or trying) RC.I bought a RTF park flyer electric glider from VolantexRC, Firstar Pro. It is a 2 ft. wingspan. I am having a little difficulty flying it but am getting very good at crashing it. It is very durable and it still flies.
I decided to build a Swappable Nutball (flitetest) as I think I can fly it slower. I bought the electronics package for the swappable power pod and it is almost finished. I am trying to use the transmitter and spare receiver from the Firstar and everything works with the new motor, new ESC and servos for the Nutball. Got lucky there I think. HOWEVER... there are no beeps to indicate that things are OK. The safety stuff works. You have to turn on the tranmitter first and have to at least return the throttle to the minimum position before the motor will rotate.
I have tried reversing the throttle control but I do not get any beeps.I am going to try to fly it with the 2s batteries from the Firstar. The electronics package from Flitetest includes 3S batteries.BOth of my receivers have the bind switch broken off from previous flights. I tried using a shorting wire to rebind but detect no difference.
Any help here would be appreciated.
Thanks,
LooseBruce
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Thanks Flitetest,
LooseBruce
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Hi, I am loving my Scratchbuilt Swappable Nutball. I broke a prop last night however. It took many attempts
I am very happy with the performance. I just want to replace the prop with the correct size.Thanks,
LooseBruce
PS Great FUN flying plane. I love it. Thank you FLitetest Folks
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DF-WOweTkm8
C'mon Flitetest, let's see some more slope flying!
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thanks for providing us with the plans and tutorials. This is really a great effort. I just have a question on the weight of the nutball. I am using a 5 mm foamboard. and I ve weighed the circular body and the power pod that I made today with out any servos,motors and electrics and it came to 440 gms (almost double the weight). But as per your specs it has to be with in 212 gms with out battery. I don't know what to do now. Did I select a wrong foam board ? or should the existing weight be ok?? shall I choose a thinner sheet? Please help? we live in india and I don't know how a dollar tree foamboard look like.
thanks in advance.
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So I'm building my first plane - the nutball - soon and just wanted to make sure I understand everything and buy the right electronics.
First of all, the plans. I suppose I should just print out the tiled copy, put them all together, cut them out, and trace the pieces onto my foamboard?
Second, since I'm trying to be as cheap as possible, for the control horns can't I just use popsicle sticks and run the push rods through them after they are secured to plane? (Also, does anyone know the hole size for the 9g servos and the control horns?)
Third, if I am going to buy FT's suggested 500 mAh LiPo battery, what is a good charger? The 500 mAh has JST-XH connector leads, but most/all chargers I have seen carry the XT60 lead head. Any suggestions?
Fourth, what are the linkage stoppers, what are they used for, and do I need them? If they are just to secure the push rods, can't I just twist the push rods into a shape that ensures they won't leave the control horn?
Fifth, for all of the electronics (motor, servos, speed control, etc) do they come with all of their necessary mounts and screws?
Sixth, any suggestions on glue guns? Currently I have a small superbonder, but I don't know if it will get the job done.
I think that's it for now. Thanks for your community outreach and trying to get people into the hobby flight test! And of course thanks for the plans! Thank you anyone for your assistance as well.
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2) Order the laser cut control horns from Flite Test store. They are way easier to use and you don't want to mess up the control horns and the throws on your first plane. Plus, you support Flite Test in the process.
The hole size for the 9g servos doesn't matter. Just cut out the square that is on the plans to the size it is and the servos will fit in perfectly. This is why when you print the plans, you need to print in 100% scaling so that the hole come out the right size.
3) I use the IMAX B6 Charger/Discharger 1-6 Cells (COPY) from HobbyKing (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__15379__IMAX_B6_Charger_Discharger_1_6_Cells_COPY_.html). Get the Hobbyking 60w Power Supply to go with it (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__20968__Hobbyking_60w_Power_Supply.html) and the PLUG-KING Multi-19 Mega Charge Plug Adapter Set (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18738__PLUG_KING_Multi_19_Mega_Charge_Plug_Adapter_Set.html). This may seem like a lot, but it's the last charger and plugs you will ever need to buy. Ever. I have 4 of them just so I can charge multiple batteries at once they are so good.
4) You don't "need" linkage stoppers, but they make your life way easier. They attach to the servo or to the control horn and they allow you to put the push rod through the hole and tighten the screw down once the flap is at the proper angle. Otherwise, you will need to bend your push rods at BOTH ends and to the exact length which is difficult even for an experienced builder. Get Linkage Stopper D1.8mm (10pcs) from HobbyKing (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=8226&aff=247441).
5) Motors are mounted to the firewall using the screws from the 9g servos (you don't need screws for the servos since they are hot glued on to the foam). You mount the speed controller to the inside of the power pod with velcro (I get strips from the dollar store here). You will need bullet connectors if you wish to disconnect the motor from the speed controller, but you can always just twist the wire together and tape (not recommended though).
6) The Ad-Tech high temp glue gun from Walmart is pretty awesome. I think that's what these guys at Flite Test use. I use them are they are perfect.
Good luck on your build. If you live in the USA, try to get some of that HobbyKing stuff I posted above from the US warehouse if possible. If you're like me and you live outside the USA (Canada for me), then order from the International warehouse and enjoy the wait!!
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thanks for the plans and show.i have a question on the firewall. it seems that the firewall is made of wood which is hard to cut with a knife.so what kind of tool do you use?
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Just bought most of the electronics parts (except Rx/Tx) on hobbyking for about 50€ from the european warehouse to France with extra supply.
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And why wasn't the original size 20 inches (the full width of the dollar tree foam boards)?
I know a lot of larger versions have been built. Does anyone have plans they are willing to share?
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